The fundamentals of my natural soap and skincare recipes have not changed since I started over 10 years ago. I made soap because I had too much milk and I made balms as I needed something for the goats (and me) and we had beeswax.
“Start where you are. Use what you have. Do what you can.” — Arthur Ashe
Over the years I have had to defend using goats milk in my soaps and beeswax in my balms to militant vegans. This always amused me as I have been a vegetarian for over 40 years which is probably longer than most of the vocal critics have been on the planet. I stopped eating meat as soon as I left home for University in 1983 and on the farm we practice low-stress, regenerative farming with natural fodder systems.
Tallow for your face?
Now we have come full circle and all the young 'uns are slathering beef tallow all over their face without a squeak or a moo for the cow butchered and rendered into lard and purified into tallow.
Start where you are. Use what you have.
All ancient remedies were shaped by what was available. Olive oil and beeswax would have been used in hot Mediterranean type climates, beef tallow in temperate grassland areas and sheep tallow in the northern latitudes.
See these recipes from the 1925 People's Home Remedy Book.
Mother's Salve
Melt together
- 1oz lard
- 1 oz Rosin
- 1 oz beeswax
- When cool add 1 oz spikenard
Egyptian Eye Salve
- 6 Dr white rosin
- 30g beeswax
- 30g burgundy pitch
- 30g mutton tallow
- 30g balsam fir
- 30g Venice Turpentine
Essential Fatty Acids
All natural skincare is driven by the different profiles of the oils, balancing their essential fatty acid profiles and the properties they deliver.
The comedogenicity (pore clogging risk) of a substance depends on its fatty acid profile, with certain fatty acids being more likely to contribute to clogged pores and breakouts.
Tallow for your face?
It has probably been used for 1000s of years for softening skin and in healing balms as have all the other fats, oils and greases. Using beef tallow on the face has recently gained popularity in skincare due to its moisturising properties and similarity to human sebum.
Grass-fed tallow may have a slightly different fatty acid profile (higher in omega-3s and vitamins) compared to grain-fed tallow, potentially affecting its comedogenicity and skin benefits.
Same, Same, but Different
I asked Grok to analyse my OCOBECO rich moisturising balm, which is specifically designed for older, drier skin and compare it to tallow.
| Fatty Acid | OCOBECO | Tallow |
Impact on Moisturising/Comedogenicity
|
| Oleic | 40–60% | 30–50% |
OCOBECO has higher oleic acid, a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid. It penetrates deeply, which is moisturizing for dry skin but may contribute to blackheads or acne in others.
|
| Linoleic | 5–15% | 1–5% |
OCOBECO has more linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid is highly beneficial for the skin barrier which is non-comedogenic. It can help reduce inflammation and is particularly good for acne-prone skin.better for acne-prone skin and barrier repair.
|
| Palmitic | 10–20% | 20–30% |
Tallow has more palmitic acid, making it slightly more occlusive. It is a saturated fatty acid forms a protective barrier on the skin, which is beneficial for dry skin but may trap oil and debris in acne-prone skin, potentially leading to clogged pores.
|
| Stearic | 5–10% | 15–25% |
Tallow has more stearic acid, which is supportive of the skin barrier. Another saturated fatty acid, it is generally non-comedogenic and less likely to clog pores. It has a lighter feel and is often well-tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.
|
| Lauric | 12–15% | 0% |
OCOBECO has lauric acid from the coconut oil which increases comedogenicity, but has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. It is absent in tallow.
|
| Myristic | 4–6% | 1–3% |
OCOBECO has slightly more myristic acid, another saturated fatty acid which increases pore-clogging risk.
|
Grok Summary of moisturising effectiveness:
OCOBECO: Superior for intense hydration due to its combination of emollient oils, occlusive butters, and beeswax, making it ideal for dry, dehydrated, or damaged skin. It provides long-lasting hydration and a strong barrier against moisture loss. The inclusion of vitamin E and olive oil’s antioxidants adds protective benefits. The linoleic acid (from olive oil) and stearic acid (from cocoa butter) support barrier repair.
Tallow: Highly moisturizing and biocompatible, excellent for dry or normal skin due to its occlusive nature and nutrient content. Slightly less versatile than OCOBECO for extreme dryness due to the absence of beeswax’s structuring properties. More suitable than OCOBECO for those with acne concerns due to lower comedogenicity.
Benefits of Beeswax
The Beeswax in my balms provides the "occlusive" element. It is composed of hydrocarbons, free fatty acids, esters, and long-chain alcohols and has a low comedogenic rating.
Beeswax is highly occlusive, forming a protective barrier that locks in moisture without penetrating the skin. It is not moisturizing on its own but enhances the effects of oils and butters and gives the balm its solid texture.
It also provides a physical barrier against environmental irritants and has mild anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
What is not so good about tallow for your face?
Skin Type Incompatibility: Tallow is highly emollient and may be too heavy for oily or combination skin. It may not absorb well for some users, leaving a residue that can trap dirt or bacteria, increasing the risk of irritation or breakouts.
Sensitivities: Some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to animal-derived products, leading to irritation, redness, or dermatitis.
Odour: Beef tallow can have a distinct odour, which may be off-putting for facial use.
Texture: Its thick, waxy texture may feel uncomfortable or heavy on the face compared to lighter skincare products.
Finally
Those with acne-prone or oily skin should probably avoid using beef tallow as a primary moisturiser due to its oleic and palmitic acid content or my OCOBECO balm due to its Myristic and Lauric acids.
I am reformulating one of my original balms COOBECO with grapeseed oil as a lighter alternative for oily, combination or acne prone skin.